On Sunday I completed my longest hike ever – just over 31 miles on the Appalachian Trail at Carver’s Gap. We did this hike as an out and back. It was a huge hiking distance PR for me and my first 50K hike!
I lived to tell the tale…just barely…what a day it was! I think I felt every emotion you could possibly feel during my 13 hours out on the trails. I’ve got a full recap for you in this post – along with a review of this amazing out and back hike that you can easily cut to its half distance of around 15 miles and do in one day or two with an overnight camp (so many awesome camp spots along the trail!).
TRAVEL TO ROAN MOUNTAIN + Mountain Harbour B&B + HIKER HOSTEL
I completed this hike with five other people. Four of us met on Saturday afternoon to drive together from Charlotte. We stopped at Celluci’s in Pineola for a dinner of pizza and salads. We had lots of carb loading to do for the following day’s hike! It was another 20 minutes to the Mountain Harbour B&B and Hiker Hostel.
It was super sweet and homey and had everything we needed for a comfortable overnight before an early hiking start. Our hosts Dave and Shannon were so warm and welcoming. I made myself a cup of tea and got to organizing my gear.
I am very fortunate to be learning from some seriously seasoned hikers and ultra runners. Here’s what came with me on Sunday’s hike:
- Salomon hydration pack – the amount of gear you can fit into this thing is truly mind-blowing. It’s also crazy comfortable and didn’t bother me once in the 13 hours I was out there.
- Leki trekking poles – 100% needed for this hike. Every single one of us had poles.
- Black Diamond head lamp
- Under Armour beanie
- Under Armour mitten gloves (could have used warmer mittens)
- NOBULL hat
- Topo trail runners
- Feetures trail socks
- lululemon tank, long sleeves, vest and tights
- Pategonia rain jacket
- Four Maurten gels, two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, pretzels, graham crackers, M&Ms, Snickers, gummy bears, a Perfect Bar, Liquid IV and LMNT
- Four liters of water
- Various medications, chapstick and some other random things
It’s important to note that members of our group were carrying first aid supplies and space blankets as well.
We made it in bed around 9:30p and I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to sleep. I got five hours in before our alarm went off at the rude hour of 3:30a.
PRE-DAWN START TO THE DAY
I wanted to hug our hosts for getting up early with us and making a pot of coffee. We got dressed, packed up and hit the trail around 4:15a. The great thing about staying at Mountain Harbour is that it’s right on the Appalachian Trail. We walked out of the door and onto the trail.
One thing to know: this area of North Carolina was severely impacted by Hurricane Helene. Volunteers have worked tirelessly to get the trail back in really great condition. Mountain Harbour’s main house/B&B is operational but they lost their hostel to a landslide and are in the process of rebuilding.
It was around 50 degrees, breezy and drizzly when we departed. I had on what you see in the above photo. I was really warm and honestly felt overdressed but didn’t want to stop and shed any layers.
The first six miles of this hike are steady but unrelenting climb when you are coming from the Highway 19E direction. During these six miles, the trail winds through the woods. You start with mostly dirt/roots and then move to lots of rocks. The rock portion of the trail between Doll Flats and Hump Mountain is challenging.
UNEXPECTED FREEZING RAIN + WINDS
Just before sunrise, we found ourselves approaching Hump Mountain.
We were hoping for a gorgeous sunrise atop one of the grassy balds we were to cross but Mother Nature had VERY different plans for us. This is why you should NEVER trust the forecast and always be over prepared with layers and rain gear.
As we made our way to the summit of Hump Mountain, the drizzle turned to freezing rain and the steady breeze turned into straight line winds that had to have been no less than 30 mph. I had freezing rain pelting me in the face and the wind was blowing me towards the left. I literally could not walk in a straight line. I felt scared and really uncomfortable – but I also knew that I was okay and would get through it.
One of our more experienced group members stopped us and encouraged everyone put on more layers and rain gear. We were all so focused on getting across the bald that we didn’t want to stop but it was absolutely the right call. I was much better able to navigate the challenging conditions with my rain gear and a hood.
I was a slightly traumatized after that crossing but relieved when experienced members of our group said it was some of the worst conditions they had been through. I was wondering if I was just being a baby, haha. Glad to know I wasn’t!
SUNRISE + WARMING UP
It began to get light but it was foggy and I was very cold. We hit Little Hump Mountain at 5,207 feet. It’s the second of the two grassy balds that you cross on this hike.
Shortly after sunrise, the feeling in my hands slowly began to return. They had gone completely numb as we crossed Hump Mountain. They were throbbing but I was so happy to feel my fingers again.
I ate a peanut butter and jelly and every swallow took monumental effort. The good thing was that it encouraged me to drink a lot of water.
At this point I was mentally over the hike and planning to bail at the halfway point where we were meeting another friend who was taking the shuttle from Mountain Harbour to do the return trip with us from Carver’s Gap. I was like PUT ME ON THE SHUTTLE. I AM DONE!
But then the sun came out and the panoramic views were incredible and I felt way less cold. I was really enjoying the company of my friends. I decided I was going to push through.
ARRIVING AT CARVER’S GAP
Before I knew it, we reached our halfway point at Carver’s Gap at 10a just under six hours after we set out and at 15 miles distance. We picked up our friend, ate some food and turned around for the return trip back to 19E and Mountain Harbour.
The clear blue skies felt wild after the weather we’d endured atop Hump Mountain just a few hours before.
RETURN TRIP OPTIMISM
I felt a renewed sense of energy and was in good spirits as we made our way back. My right lower quad started talking to me but I did my best to ignore it. We were all chatting and listening to music as we hiked.
We took a detour off the AT and followed the blue blazes to Yellow Mountain Gap Overmountain Shelter. The shelter is no longer there but it’s a great spot to take a break or camp if you were doing an overnight. There is also a water source nearby.
We were 22 miles in at this point.
HITTING THE WALL
We left Overmountain Shelter and I slammed into the wall – hard. We had two mega climbs left to go up Little Hump Mountain and Hump Mountain and I was moving at a snails pace.
Views atop Little Hump. They were like this everywhere you looked! This is such an insanely gorgeous hike and I’m told it’s stunning during the summer and fall as well. Tons of wildflowers.
I wanted to cry when I saw the final lonnnnngggggg trek we had up Hump Mountain (but I saved my tears for later). I slowly fell further and further behind and felt pretty defeated. I wanted to kick into a different gear and the power just wasn’t there.
FINALLY MADE IT! All we had left was six miles of descent back to Highway 19E. Sounds magical right?
FEELING ALL THE FEELS
Insert all the crying Emojis here. I questioned everything I knew about life in those last six miles and swore to myself that I would never, ever hike again. My right quad was really bugging me and the first few miles of descent were super rocky so it was mentally fatiguing to have to pay so much attention to where I was stepping and I had to lead with my right leg every time I took a big step down because of my quad.
I wish I had photos of the scenery during this portion of the hike. It’s pretty with lots of moss and rocks. It’s a very sweet forest walk. Unfortunately, it was all I could do to put one foot in front of the other so I didn’t take any photos.
I wanted to quit so badly but it wasn’t an option. When you are out in the middle of the woods there is no Uber to call, friend to pick you up or cutting your route short. No one was coming to save me. My only choice was to finish. My friends kept checking in with me but I encouraged them to just go ahead – I didn’t want to be babysat. It was just me and the trail – and it kind of needed to be that way. I worked through a lot in those last few miles. There was anger, there was sadness, there was questioning. Honestly, a lot of stuff came up that I spent a whole session discussing with my therapist today.
And then…I finally heard the glorious sounds of the highway. I made one final creek crossing and emerged from the forest to find my friends waiting for me. They cheered and clapped as I made my way to the group and I burst into tears.
THE BEST TEAM!
These humans. I can’t even begin to express how lucky I am to have them in my life. I went on my first hike with them last July. I meant to write a blog post about it but never did – it was just too much to put into words. You can read an overview of how we connected and our first hike on Instagram. I’ve been out with them a few times now, and we workout together once a week. They help me on the trails – and I help them with strength training. We have many, many more outings coming in 2025 as we are signed up for a big event out west later this summer. Details are forthcoming!
This hike was one of the most physically and mentally challenging things that I have ever done. I would put it up there with my first marathon. I think a lot of it was to do with coming off of the flu and vacation but it’s also just freaking hard to be on your feet for 13 hours in varying weather conditions and terrain. I am proud of myself for finishing.
LET’S DO IT AGAIN
As for how I’m feeling now – ready to do it again. If you’d asked me Sunday during the hike or Monday when I was recovering if I’d ever do it again, my answer would have been a resounding NO NO NO. But the soreness has dissipated (wouldn’t you know the quad discomfort disappeared as soon as we got in the car) and I’ve processed the head stuff. Nature is a healer and I faced a lot on this hike while also truly enjoying the scenery and connection with others. I’m eager to do a redemption hike at Carver’s Gap – but thinking I’ll do the one-way 15 miler next time. 
As far as recovery, it looked like eight hours of sleep on Sunday night – I collapsed into bed when we got home. I took Monday and Tuesday as full rest days. I saw Dr. Goodman at Greenapple Sports on Tuesday to do some active release work. I practiced yoga today – which felt amazing. I have also eaten a ton. I think tomorrow I’ll be ready for a short run or lift.
And that brings us to a close!
QUESTIONS
What’s the hardest physically/mentally challenging thing you’ve done lately?
Do you enjoy hiking/trails?
Favorite trail food? (gimme all the ideas)
Way to go Jen!! That looks like so much fun!! The most difficult hike I’ve done is the entirety of the AT in Maine with my husband. Three weeks of some of the hardest terrain of the trail. But it brought out a side of me I didn’t even know I had.
And honestly my favorite trail food is Pop Tarts; I only eat them when I hike!
Jen, those pics are incredible! You are amazing for staying with your hike! I did a Spartan race a few years ago that was absolutely horrible…muddy and gross and awful. I finished and said never again. My coach encouraged me to do another one. I was so glad I did, much better experience…but never again after that.
I’m blown away by this story. The whole thing sounds so so hard. I was reminded of a hike I did a few years ago to the top of the Nevis Peak on the island of Nevis in the Caribbean. The coming down was way harder than I expected and I was so tired. I, too, found it mentally draining as it was rocky. And I wanted to be rescued! But that whole hike was only 6 hours ….no comparison to your ordeal. What you did was so tough on every level. You frequently impress me with what you share of how you live your life, but that was an incredible feat. Way to go and thanks for sharing.
Wow, what an adventure!
Way to push through “the mud” of it all, you should be very proud of yourself!
I love hiking, so many great options where I live and my dogs love it too
One of the hardest hikes I have done was in Indonesia, a volcano hike. High heat, not enough fuel for the bod, it was a bit rough, but the good company and laughs made it a fun experience nonetheless.
Impressive.
Trail mix is my go to!
Reading this brought up all the feels I had during my first (and only) full marathon in 2008. I’m still not recovered. LOL
Wow – so impressed as always from single parenting to alcohol free to marathons and epic hikes. I did 10 days on the AT in the presidential and less than 10 miles a day. But the conditions and weather and cold were tough. I applaud you.
Beautiful accomplishment, Jen! I, too, have had some very powerful psychological/spiritual experiences while hiking. Those are memories we never forget!
Jen, holy moly! This story is amazing. What an adventure, both physically and emotionally, you had. I am so impressed by what you were able to do, especially coming off of having the flu. Congratulations on such a great achievement.
I can relate particularly to the return trip! Only I was at almost 12,000 feet and let me tell you – snail’s pace bc of the oxygen loss! The return trip is both a blessing and a curse isn’t it? I was dreaming of a burger.
That cold you dealt with sounded awful! It can be scary when the only way out is your legs!!!
Congratulations, Jen! It sounds like it was an epic adventure. I love reading adventure recaps like this. The toughest hike I’ve ever done was the Grand Canyon! My friend and I talked about hiking it together for years, and though it was physically and emotionally draining it was also a dream come true. I love these types of hikes and hope to get back to them someday now that my little is almost 3.
Thank you for sharing the intense out and back hike. I’m so glad you have discovered this new avocation, which beautifully combines the physical and mental. You have been an inspiration to me for many years – as a yoga teacher, chef, mom, and human. I have also seen Dr. Goodman and he has taught me so much about muscle activation – particularly the gluteals!
Amazing accomplishment – congrats! How did you find your hiking group?